The W Trek, Torres del Paine

Park entry must be booked online in advance, and each night requires a reserved bed or campsite with one of the two refuge concessionaires. In the summer season the whole chain sells out months ahead — arrange all four nights before booking flights.

Long daylight hours make the big days manageable. The trade-off is that everyone else knows this too — hence the booking crunch. Shoulder weeks in November and March are slightly calmer.

Patagonian weather is famously violent and changes hour to hour: strong wind, sun, rain and cold can all land in the same day. Waterproof shell, warm layers and a pack liner are non-negotiable year-round.

Fly or bus to Puerto Natales, then take the park bus (about two hours) to the Laguna Amarga entrance. Inside the park, a shuttle and the Lago Pehoé catamarans link the sectors — check their timetables when planning each day’s finish.

Walking the W east to west, as this itinerary does, puts the Towers on day 1 and the blue wall of Grey Glacier at the finale. Start the Towers day early — the dawn light on the granite is the image everyone comes for.

The trek never climbs above about 900 m, but 15–22 km days over rough ground with Patagonian wind are no formality. Respect the distances and keep a reserve for the French Valley day.