The W Trek, Torres del Paine

Park entry must be booked online in advance, and each night needs a reserved bed or campsite — split between two separate concessionaires, so one W itinerary usually means bookings on two systems: Vertice Patagonia (Paine Grande, Grey) and Las Torres (Central, Chileno, Cuernos, Francés). Season bookings have historically opened in the southern autumn and the summer chain sells out months ahead — arrange all four nights before booking flights.

The single best play on the W is a night at Refugio Chileno, the only accommodation up the Ascencio valley. From there you leave by headlamp a couple of hours before dawn and reach the base of the towers as first light turns the granite red — day hikers from the valley floor arrive hours later. Chileno is also the bed that sells out first, so book it the moment reservations open.

Long daylight hours make the big days manageable. The trade-off is that everyone else knows this too — hence the booking crunch. Shoulder weeks in November and March are slightly calmer.

Patagonian weather is famously violent and changes hour to hour: strong wind, sun, rain and cold can all land in the same day. Waterproof shell, warm layers and a pack liner are non-negotiable year-round.

Fly or bus to Puerto Natales, then take the park bus (about two hours) to the Laguna Amarga entrance. Inside the park, a shuttle and the Lago Pehoé catamarans link the sectors — check their timetables when planning each day’s finish.

Walking the W east to west, as this itinerary does, puts the Towers on day 1 and the blue wall of Grey Glacier at the finale. Start the Towers day early — the dawn light on the granite is the image everyone comes for.

The trek never climbs above about 900 m, but 15–22 km days over rough ground with Patagonian wind are no formality. Respect the distances and keep a reserve for the French Valley day.

Patagonian wind is the hazard that actually catches people out: gusts strong enough to stagger you are routine, especially on the exposed stretches along Lago Nordenskjöld and in the French Valley. Use trekking poles, strap everything down, and give cliff-edge viewpoints a wide margin. If a ranger or refugio says a section is blown out, believe them.

Not every night has to be with the paid concessionaires: CONAF, the park service, has historically run a free bare-bones campsite at Italiano, right at the mouth of the French Valley, booked separately on its own platform. No showers or meals, but the position is perfect for splitting the biggest day. Its open status has changed from season to season — check it when you plan.

One of the W’s quiet luxuries: flowing streams in the park are generally considered clean enough to drink straight, so you can carry one small bottle and refill all day — ask rangers if any stretch is an exception. Refugios sell hot dinners and packed lunches, so with meals booked ahead you can walk with a remarkably light pack.