City walk Madrid — Centro, Spain

Madrid Historic Walk: From the Royal Palace to the Retiro

One easy day on foot across the old center of the Spanish capital — royal palace, arcaded squares, a literary quarter, the Prado, and a park that used to belong to kings.

Madrid Historic Walk: From the Royal Palace to the Retiro
Photo: Zarateman · CC0
Duration
1 day
Distance
5.5 km
Walking time (est.)
1 h 30 min
Difficulty
Easy
Best season
April–June and September–October

Walking

    Your location stays on this phone. It is never sent, stored or put in a link.

    Packing list

    Getting there and back

    Start
    Royal Palace of Madrid
    Finish
    Retiro Park

    One-way: plan your trip back

    Madrid is a walking capital that hides its scale well. The historic center is compact enough to cross in a morning, yet it packs in the largest royal palace in Western Europe, a Habsburg square built for public spectacle, the tangle of streets where Cervantes and Lope de Vega lived and quarrelled, one of the world’s great picture galleries, and a former royal pleasure garden now open to everyone.

    This route runs west to east in a single continuous line — no doubling back — climbing gently from the palace terraces to the ridge of the Paseo del Prado. It is a route best walked slowly, with an unhurried stop for tapas somewhere between the Puerta del Sol and the Prado.

    Getting there. From Barajas airport take Metro Line 8 to Nuevos Ministerios and change for Line 10 and then Line 2 to Ópera, the station beside the Royal Palace, where the walk begins. Allow about 45 minutes.

    Permits & tickets. The Royal Palace charges an entry fee and rooms close without notice for state ceremonies, so check on the day. The Prado is ticketed too, with a free window in the last two hours before closing that draws long queues — book a timed slot instead. Plaza Mayor, the Puerta del Sol, the Barrio de las Letras and the Retiro are free.

    Good to know:

    Tips & Insights for this route Planning this route? Read our practical tips before you go — 3 tips. Read the tips

    Elevation profile

    Highest point
    674 m Day 1
    Lowest point
    648 m Day 1
    Total descent
    11 m

    Point at the profile, or focus it and use the arrow keys, to see that spot on the map.

    Terrain heights along a straight line between each day’s stops, not along the footpath, so a pass or a switchback the path takes can be missing. Descent and walking times use the same line.

    Elevation data: Terrain Tiles (Mapzen, AWS Open Data)

    Day by day

    DayDistanceAscentDescent (est.)Walking time (est.)
    Day 1 Hardest dayRoyal Madrid to the Retiro
    Distance5.5 kmAscentNot recordedDescent (est.)11 mWalking time (est.)1 h 30 min

    Flights on Kayak Car rental on Localrent Travel eSIM on Airalo

    Day 1

    Royal Madrid to the Retiro

    Royal Palace of Madrid → Retiro Park 5.5 km 1 h 30 min

    A single line from the Royal Palace through the Habsburg squares and the literary quarter to the Prado and the Retiro park.

    Drinking water

    Places mapped by volunteers on OpenStreetMap; opening times and taps change, so check before relying on one. © OpenStreetMap contributors

    Segments

    1. The Royal Palace
      The Royal Palace 0.4 km Map

      Ópera metro station → Royal Palace of Madrid

      City streets

      Start at the official residence of the Spanish royal family, used today mainly for state ceremonies. With over 135,000 m² of floor space and around 3,400 rooms it is the largest royal palace in Europe. Walk the state rooms, then step out onto the Plaza de Oriente for the view west over the Casa de Campo. Allow about 90 minutes.

      About this place

      The Royal Palace of Madrid is the official residence of the Spanish royal family and is used primarily for state ceremonies. With over 135,000 m2 (1,450,000 sq ft) of floor space and 3,418 rooms, the Royal Palace of Madrid is the largest palace in Western Europe, the largest royal palace in Europe, and among the largest palaces in the world.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: Tim Adams · CC BY-SA 4.0
    2. Plaza Mayor
      Plaza Mayor 0.8 km Map

      Royal Palace of Madrid → Plaza Mayor

      City streets

      Cut east through the old Habsburg quarter to Madrid's principal public square, built between 1580 and 1619 under Philip III. The enclosed, arcaded rectangle was the stage for markets, proclamations, bullfights and executions. Enter through one of the nine gateways and cross it on the diagonal. About 30 minutes.

      About this place

      The Plaza Mayor is the principal public square in the heart of Madrid, the capital of Spain. It was once the centre of Old Madrid. It was first built (1580–1619) during the reign of Philip III. Only a few blocks away is another famous plaza, the Puerta del Sol.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: Jorge Franganillo · CC BY 2.0
    3. Puerta del Sol
      Puerta del Sol 0.4 km Map

      Plaza Mayor → Puerta del Sol

      City streets

      A few blocks on lies the busiest square in the city and the centre of Spain's radial road network — distances nationwide are measured from here. Look for the clock whose bells mark the eating of the twelve grapes at New Year, broadcast live since 1962, and the bear-and-strawberry-tree statue that is the city's emblem. About 20 minutes.

      About this place

      The Puerta del Sol is a public square in Madrid, one of the best known and busiest places in the city. This is the centre of the radial network of Spanish roads. The square also contains the famous clock whose bells mark the traditional eating of the Twelve Grapes and the beginning of a new year. The New Year's celebration has been broadcast live since 31 December 1962 on major radio and television networks including Atresmedia and RTVE.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: Matt Joseph · CC BY-SA 4.0
    4. Barrio de las Letras
      Barrio de las Letras 0.7 km Map

      Puerta del Sol → Plaza de Santa Ana

      City streets, some gentle slope

      Drop south into the literary quarter, where the writers of the Spanish Golden Age lived within a few streets of one another and their lines are set into the paving underfoot. Plaza de Santa Ana is its living room, ringed by terraces and watched over by monuments to Calderón de la Barca and García Lorca. A good place to stop for tapas. About 60 minutes.

      About this place

      Plaza de Santa Ana is a plaza located in central Madrid, Spain, nearby Puerta del Sol and Calle de Huertas, in the Barrio de las Letras. It features monuments to Spanish Golden Age writer Pedro Calderón de la Barca and to the poet and playwright Federico García Lorca and numerous restaurants, cafes, and tapas bars, with its terraces covering most of the sides surfaces.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: Luis García (Zaqarbal) · CC BY-SA 3.0
    5. Museo del Prado
      Museo del Prado 0.9 km Map

      Plaza de Santa Ana → Museo del Prado

      City streets, gentle uphill

      Climb the Calle de Huertas to the tree-lined Paseo del Prado and Spain's national art museum, founded in 1819 around the former royal collection. Goya is the most extensively represented artist here, alongside Velázquez, El Greco, Bosch, Titian and Rubens. Two hours is a bare minimum; three is better.

      About this place

      The Museo del Prado, officially known as Museo Nacional del Prado, is the main Spanish national art museum, located in central Madrid. It houses collections of European art, dating from the 12th century to the early 20th century, based on the former Spanish royal collection, and is the single best collection of Spanish art. Founded as a museum of paintings and sculpture in 1819, it also contains important collections of other types of works. The numerous works by Francisco Goya, the single most extensively represented artist, as well as by Hieronymus Bosch, El Greco, Peter Paul Rubens, Titian, and Diego Velázquez, are some of the highlights of the collection. Velázquez and his keen eye and sensibility were also responsible for bringing much of the museum's fine collection of Italian masters to Spain, now one of the largest outside of Italy.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: Emilio J. Rodríguez Posada · CC BY-SA 2.0
    6. Retiro Park
      Retiro Park 2.3 km Map

      Museo del Prado → Retiro Park

      Park paths and gravel avenues

      Finish next door in the Retiro, a former royal garden that belonged to the monarchy until 1868 and covers about 1.4 km². Row a boat on the artificial lake, find the glass Crystal Palace among the trees, then leave through the Alcalá Gate. Since 2021 the park has been part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site together with the Paseo del Prado. About 90 minutes at a wandering pace.

      About this place

      The Retiro Park, also known as Buen Retiro Park or simply El Retiro, is one of the largest city parks in Madrid, Spain. The park belonged to the Spanish monarchy until 1868, when it became a public park following the Glorious Revolution. The park is located at the edge of the city centre, near both the Alcalá Gate and the Museo del Prado, and covers 1.4 km2. It has gardens, monuments, galleries, an artificial lake, and event-hosting venues. In 2021, Buen Retiro Park became part of a combined UNESCO World Heritage Site that also includes Paseo del Prado.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: Max Alexander / PromoMadrid · CC BY-SA 2.0

    Partner link: if you book through it we may earn a commission, at no extra cost to you. It does not change what we recommend. How this works

    Tips & Insights

    Packing list

    Filled in for this route from the kit a walk like this needs and the gear its tips mention. Tick things off as you pack.

    Clothing and footwear
    Gear
    Health and sun
    Water and food

    Museo del Prado

    • A booked ticket sends you to a specific door — use it

      Pre-booked online tickets skip the Puerta de Goya box-office line entirely and go straight in through the Puerta de los Jerónimos, the museum’s main accessible entrance on the east side next to the Jerónimos church (Puerta de Murillo also takes ticket holders). Show up at the wrong door with a phone ticket and you’ll be sent walking around the building to find the right one.

    Puerta del Sol

    • The center of Spain is a plaque on the ground, easy to miss

      Kilometre Zero — the point every Spanish road distance is measured from — is a small brass-and-granite marker set into the pavement near the old post office, not a monument you can spot from across the square. It also sits in the most pickpocket-worked square in central Madrid, so treat the crush around the plaque as the moment to keep a hand on your bag, not to dig out your phone for photos.

    Plaza Mayor

    • Walk a block before you sit down to eat

      The arcaded restaurants ringing Plaza Mayor itself are built for one-time tourists and it shows in the food. Head a couple of minutes south to Calle Cava Baja and the streets around Cuchilleros, where the tapas bars are still full of Madrileños rather than tour groups.

    Comments