جولة في المدينة مونتريال — البلاتو ومايل إند، كندا

The Plateau and Mile End: Staircases, Smoked Meat and the Bagel Duel

An eating walk through Montreal's most lived-in neighbourhoods: a Victorian square, Parc La Fontaine, streets of twisting outdoor staircases, a smoked-meat sandwich on the Main and a head-to-head of the city's two great bagel bakeries.

صورة: Chicoutimi · Public domain
المدة
1 يوم
المسافة
7 كم
مستوى الصعوبة
سهل
أفضل موسم
May–October
طباعة بطاقات الأيام قائمة التجهيز

If Old Montreal is where the city keeps its history, the Plateau is where it lives. This is the Montreal of the postcards that are not of churches: rows of two- and three-storey ‘plexes’ painted in bright colours, each with its own iron staircase curling up from the sidewalk to a second-floor door, balconies where people actually sit, and corner shops every few blocks. Michel Tremblay and Mordecai Richler both grew up here and set their best-known stories on these streets. Further north, Mile End adds the city’s independent music scene, its Hasidic community and its two most famous bagel bakeries, a few hundred metres apart and rivals for generations.

This route strings it all together in about seven flat kilometres: from Square Saint-Louis across to Parc La Fontaine, west along Avenue Duluth through the staircase streets, onto Boulevard Saint-Laurent (the Main) for smoked meat at Schwartz’s, and north up the Main into Mile End for the bagel duel on Rue Saint-Viateur and Avenue Fairmount. Come hungry and give it most of a day. It is less a sightseeing walk than a slow graze through the neighbourhoods that Montrealers would choose to show you themselves.

Getting there. Start at Sherbrooke metro station (orange line), which exits a two-minute walk from Square Saint-Louis. You finish in Mile End, about 20 minutes’ walk from Laurier metro (also orange), or take a bus back down Saint-Laurent.

Permits & tickets. Nothing here needs a ticket. The only queue you may meet is the one outside Schwartz’s.

Good to know:

نصائح ومعلومات لهذا المسار تخططون لهذا المسار؟ اقرأوا نصائحنا العملية قبل الانطلاق — 9 نصائح. اقرأوا النصائح
تنزيل نقاط الطريق (GPX) نقاط اهتمام بترتيب المشي — وليست تتبّعًا للدرب.

يومًا بيوم

اليومالمسافةالصعودالهبوطوقت المشي
اليوم 1 أصعب يومSquare Saint-Louis to the Mile End bagel shops
المسافة7 كمالصعودغير مسجّلالهبوطغير مسجّلوقت المشيغير مسجّل
اليوم 1

Square Saint-Louis to the Mile End bagel shops

Sherbrooke metro station ← Fairmount Bagel, Mile End 7 كم

A slow walk and graze from a Victorian square through the Plateau’s residential streets to the Main and north into Mile End.

مقاطع

  1. Square Saint-Louis 0.4 كم خريطة

    Sherbrooke metro station ← Square Saint-Louis

    City sidewalk and a small park

    A two-minute walk from the metro, this small square was laid out in 1876 on the site of an old city reservoir and is ringed by some of the Plateau's grandest Victorian houses. The cast-iron fountain in the middle is one of the oldest public fountains in the city, and busts of the poets Octave Crémazie and Émile Nelligan (who lived facing the square) stand among the trees. Avenue Laval, along its western side, has the finest houses. About 20 minutes.

    عن هذا المكان

    Saint Louis Square is an urban square in Montreal's Plateau Mont Royal. Its eastern edge fronts onto Saint Denis Street, a major north–south artery. Square Saint Louis Street runs along both the square's northern and southern sides, while Laval Avenue runs along its western side.

    اقرأوا المزيد في ويكيبيديا صورة: Original uploader was FRED at fr.wikipedia · CC BY-SA 3.0
  2. Across to Parc La Fontaine 1.8 كم خريطة

    Square Saint-Louis ← Parc La Fontaine at Avenue Duluth

    Residential streets, then park paths

    Head east through quiet residential streets to Parc La Fontaine, 34 hectares of lawns and trees that were a military training ground until 1888 and are named for Louis-Hippolyte La Fontaine, the first francophone to lead a government of Canada. Walk north through the park past its two linked ponds, separated by a waterfall and bridge, and the open-air Théâtre de Verdure. Leave from the west side at Avenue Duluth. About 40 minutes.

    عن هذا المكان

    La Fontaine Park is a 34 ha urban park located in the borough of Le Plateau-Mont-Royal in Montreal, Quebec, Canada. Named in honour of Louis-Hippolyte Lafontaine, The park's features include two linked ponds with a fountain and waterfalls, the Théâtre de Verdure open-air venue, the Calixa-Lavallée cultural centre, a monument to Adam Dollard des Ormeaux, playing fields and tennis courts. Its ponds are a popular attraction during Montreal's hot summers, with outdoor ice skating in winter. Bike paths run along the park's western and northern edges. Parc La Fontaine is surrounded by Sherbrooke Street on the South, Parc-La Fontaine Avenue on the West, Rachel Street on the North, and Papineau avenue on the East.

    اقرأوا المزيد في ويكيبيديا صورة: Dean Bere · CC BY-SA 3.0
  3. The staircase streets along Avenue Duluth 1 كم خريطة

    Parc La Fontaine ← Rue Saint-Denis

    Narrow residential streets

    Walk west on Avenue Duluth, a narrow street of small restaurants, and wander a block north or south into the side streets along the way. This is the classic Plateau streetscape: brick and stone plexes, wrought-iron balconies and outdoor staircases in every shape, straight, L-shaped and full spiral. Cross Rue Saint-Denis, one of the Plateau's main shopping streets, and keep going. About 30 minutes, more if you stop for photos.

    عن هذا المكان

    Saint Denis Street is a major east-west thoroughfare in Montreal, Quebec.

    اقرأوا المزيد في ويكيبيديا صورة: Dillan Payne · CC BY-SA 4.0
  4. Smoked meat at Schwartz's 0.8 كم خريطة

    Rue Saint-Denis ← Schwartz's, Boulevard Saint-Laurent

    City sidewalk

    Continue on Duluth to Boulevard Saint-Laurent and turn left for about a block to number 3895. Schwartz's was founded in 1928 by Reuben Schwartz, a Jewish immigrant from Romania, and still cures its brisket for ten days and smokes it in the same brick smokehouse. The room is small and shared, the line outside is part of the ritual and the sandwich lives up to it. About 60 minutes with the wait.

    عن هذا المكان

    Schwartz's, also known as the Schwartz's Deli and the Montreal Hebrew Delicatessen, is a Jewish delicatessen restaurant and take-out, located on Saint-Laurent Boulevard in Montreal, Quebec, Canada. It was established in 1928, by Reuben Schwartz, a Jewish immigrant from Romania. Its long popularity and reputation has led to it being considered a cultural institution and landmark in Montreal.

    اقرأوا المزيد في ويكيبيديا صورة: Canmenwalker · CC BY 4.0
  5. North up the Main 2.2 كم خريطة

    Schwartz's ← Rue Saint-Viateur

    Busy commercial boulevard

    Walk north on Saint-Laurent, the street Montrealers call the Main. For a century it divided English-speaking Montreal from French-speaking Montreal, and it was the first street for wave after wave of immigrants; in 2002 it was designated a National Historic Site for exactly that. The walls along this stretch carry some of the city's biggest murals, many painted for the MURAL festival. Cross Avenue du Mont-Royal and continue into Mile End. About 45 minutes.

    عن هذا المكان

    Saint Laurent Boulevard, also known as Saint Lawrence Boulevard, is a major street in Montreal, Quebec, Canada. A commercial artery and cultural heritage site, the street runs north west–south east through the near-centre of city and is nicknamed The Main, which is the abbreviation for "Main Street".

    اقرأوا المزيد في ويكيبيديا صورة: CultureClub · CC BY-SA 4.0
  6. The bagel duel 0.8 كم خريطة

    Rue Saint-Viateur ← Fairmount Bagel

    Neighbourhood streets

    Turn left onto Rue Saint-Viateur for St-Viateur Bagel at number 263 Ouest, opened in 1957 by Myer Lewkowicz, a Holocaust survivor from Poland. Watch the bakers roll, boil and slide the bagels into the wood-fired oven. Then walk a few minutes south to Fairmount Bagel at 74 Avenue Fairmount Ouest, founded in 1919 and on this spot since 1949. Taste them side by side and choose. About 30 minutes.

    عن هذا المكان

    St-Viateur Bagel is a Montreal-style bagel bakery located in the neighbourhood of Mile End in the borough of Le Plateau-Mont-Royal, Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

    اقرأوا المزيد في ويكيبيديا صورة: Iwona Erskine-Kellie from Vancouver, Canada · CC BY 2.0

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