City walk Scotland — Edinburgh, United Kingdom

Edinburgh: The Royal Mile and Arthur's Seat

One day from the castle on its volcanic rock, straight down the Royal Mile to Holyrood, then up an extinct volcano for the whole city at your feet.

Edinburgh: The Royal Mile and Arthur's Seat
Photo: Andrew Colin · CC BY 2.0
Duration
1 day
Distance
6 km
Walking time (est.)
2 h
Ascent
230 m
Difficulty
Easy
Best season
May–September

Walking

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    Packing list

    Getting there and back

    Start
    Castle Esplanade
    Finish
    Arthur's Seat summit

    One-way: plan your trip back

    Few capitals hand you a mountain at the end of the high street. Edinburgh does. This walk runs the length of the Old Town’s spine — the Royal Mile, a series of streets forming the main thoroughfare of the medieval city — from Edinburgh Castle at the top to the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom, and then simply keeps going, up the grassy flank of Arthur’s Seat to a summit of about 251 m with the Firth of Forth laid out beyond.

    The castle end is all crag and garrison; the middle is closes and wynds, the narrow alleys running off the Mile into a buried city; the bottom is royal, then suddenly wild. It is about six kilometres in total, but the last one is the one your legs will remember.

    Getting there. Edinburgh Waverley station sits directly below the Royal Mile; from Edinburgh Airport the tram takes about 35 minutes to St Andrew Square, a short walk away. The walk begins at the Castle Esplanade.

    Permits & tickets. Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse both charge admission and both are best booked in advance for a timed slot. The Royal Mile, St Giles’ Cathedral (a donation is invited) and Holyrood Park are free.

    Good to know:

    Tips & Insights for this route Planning this route? Read our practical tips before you go — 3 tips. Read the tips

    Elevation profile

    Highest point
    206 m Day 1
    Lowest point
    39 m Day 1
    Total descent
    45 m

    Point at the profile, or focus it and use the arrow keys, to see that spot on the map.

    Terrain heights along a straight line between each day’s stops, not along the footpath, so a pass or a switchback the path takes can be missing. Descent and walking times use the same line.

    Elevation data: Terrain Tiles (Mapzen, AWS Open Data)

    Day by day

    DayDistanceAscentDescent (est.)Walking time (est.)
    Day 1 Hardest dayCastle to summit
    Distance6 kmAscent230 mDescent (est.)45 mWalking time (est.)2 h

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    Day 1

    Castle to summit

    Castle Esplanade → Arthur's Seat summit 6 km 230 m 2 h

    A single downhill line through a thousand years of the Old Town, followed by one honest uphill.

    Drinking water

    Places mapped by volunteers on OpenStreetMap; opening times and taps change, so check before relying on one. © OpenStreetMap contributors

    Segments

    1. Edinburgh Castle
      Edinburgh Castle 0.4 km 20 m Map

      Castle Esplanade → Crown Square

      Cobbled ramps and stone stairs

      Start on Castle Rock, occupied since at least the Iron Age and crowned by a royal castle since the reign of Malcolm III in the 11th century. Inside are the Honours of Scotland — the Scottish crown jewels, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries — the tiny Norman St Margaret's Chapel, and views straight down the street you are about to walk. Allow about 90 minutes.

      About this place

      Edinburgh Castle is a historic castle in Edinburgh, Scotland. It stands on Castle Rock, which has been occupied by humans since at least the Iron Age. There has been a royal castle on the rock since the reign of Malcolm III in the 11th century, and the castle continued to be a royal residence until 1633. From the 15th century, the castle's residential role declined, and by the 17th century it was principally used as a military garrison. Its importance as a part of Scotland's national heritage was recognised increasingly from the early 19th century onwards, and various restoration programmes have been carried out since the middle of the 19th century.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: Enric · CC BY-SA 4.0
    2. Down the Royal Mile and its closes
      Down the Royal Mile and its closes 0.9 km Map

      Castlehill → High Street

      Cobbled street

      The Mile is not one street but several, running downhill in a straight medieval line. The real discovery is sideways: duck into the closes and wynds — steep, shoulder-width alleys off both sides — where the tenement city stacked itself up to eleven storeys. Mary King's Close, sealed under the City Chambers, can be visited underground. About 45 minutes, more if you wander.

      About this place

      The Royal Mile is a series of streets forming the main thoroughfare of the Old Town of Edinburgh, Scotland. The term originated in the early 20th century and has since entered popular usage.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: Kim Traynor · CC BY-SA 3.0
    3. St Giles' Cathedral
      St Giles' Cathedral 0.2 km Map

      High Street → Parliament Square

      Cobbled street

      The High Kirk of Edinburgh, begun in the 14th century and extended into the early 16th, sits halfway down the Mile under its distinctive crowned steeple. This was John Knox's church and the pulpit of the Scottish Reformation. Don't miss the Thistle Chapel, a small riot of carved stone. About 30 minutes.

      About this place

      St Giles' Cathedral, also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, is one of three cathedrals in Edinburgh, Scotland. The existing building was begun in the 14th century and extended until the early 16th century; significant alterations were undertaken in the 19th and 20th centuries, including the addition of the Thistle Chapel. St Giles' is closely associated with many events and figures in Scottish history, including John Knox, who served as the church's minister after the Scottish Reformation. The cathedral is administered by the Church of Scotland.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: Carlos Delgado · CC BY-SA 3.0
    4. Canongate to Holyrood Palace
      Canongate to Holyrood Palace 1.1 km Map

      Parliament Square → Palace of Holyroodhouse

      Cobbled street and pavement

      The Mile's lower half, the Canongate, is quieter and older-feeling, and delivers you to the Palace of Holyroodhouse — the official residence of the monarch in Scotland, standing at the opposite end of the Mile from the castle. Mary, Queen of Scots' chambers are here, and the roofless ruin of Holyrood Abbey sits alongside. The modern Scottish Parliament faces it across the road. About 90 minutes.

      About this place

      The Palace of Holyroodhouse, also known as Holyrood Palace, is the official residence of the monarch of the United Kingdom in Scotland. Located at the bottom of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, at the opposite end to Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood has served as the principal royal residence in Scotland since the 16th century, and is a setting for state occasions and official entertaining.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: 瑞丽江的河水 · CC BY-SA 4.0
    5. Into Holyrood Park
      Into Holyrood Park 1.8 km 90 m Map

      Palace of Holyroodhouse → Dunsapie Loch

      Park paths and road

      The city stops at a gate. Holyrood Park is a piece of highland dropped into the capital — hills, lochs, glens and basalt cliffs, with the great curved wall of Salisbury Crags overhead. Follow the park round to Dunsapie Loch, the launching point for the gentlest way up. About 45 minutes.

      About this place

      Holyrood Park is a public park in central Edinburgh, Scotland about 1 mile to the east of Edinburgh Castle. It has an array of hills, lochs, glens, ridges, basalt cliffs, and patches of gorse, providing a wild piece of highland landscape within its 650-acre (260 ha) area. The park is associated with the Palace of Holyroodhouse and was formerly a royal hunting estate. The park was created in 1541 when James V had the ground "circulit about Arthurs Sett, Salisborie and Duddingston craggis" enclosed by a stone wall.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: David Monniaux · CC BY-SA 3.0
    6. Up Arthur's Seat
      Up Arthur's Seat 1.6 km 120 m Map

      Dunsapie Loch → Arthur's Seat summit

      Grassy slope and rocky path

      The main peak of an ancient extinct volcano, rising to about 251 m above the city — Robert Louis Stevenson called it a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design. From the east, above Dunsapie Loch, it is a steady grassy pull with a rocky final scramble to a summit that gives back the whole route: the Mile, the castle, the Forth and, on a clear day, Fife. About 45 minutes up.

      About this place

      Arthur's Seat is an ancient extinct volcano. It is the main peak of a group of hills in Edinburgh, Scotland, which form most of Holyrood Park. Robert Louis Stevenson described it as "a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design". It is situated just to the east of the city centre, about 1 mile (1.6 km) to the east of Edinburgh Castle. The hill rises above the city to a height of 250.5 m (822 ft), provides panoramic views of the city and beyond, is relatively easy to climb, and is popular for hillwalking. Though it can be climbed from almost any direction, the easiest ascent is from the east, where a grassy slope rises above Dunsapie Loch. At a spur of the hill, Salisbury Crags has historically been a rock climbing venue with routes of various degrees of difficulty. Rock climbing was restricted to the South Quarry, but access was banned altogether in 2019 by Historic Environment Scotland.

      Read more on Wikipedia Photo: Kim Traynor · CC BY-SA 3.0

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    Tips & Insights

    Packing list

    Filled in for this route from the kit a walk like this needs and the gear its tips mention. Tick things off as you pack.

    Clothing and footwear
    Gear
    Health and sun
    Water and food

    Edinburgh Castle

    • Time your visit to the One O'Clock Gun

      A cannon has fired from the castle ramparts at exactly 1pm every day except Sunday since 1861, originally so ships in the harbour could set their clocks. It still catches first-time visitors off guard — check the time before you’re inside, and stand where you can see the gun on Mills Mount Battery for the moment itself.

    Down the Royal Mile and its closes

    • The closes are named for what happened in them — read the signs

      Names like Fleshmarket Close, Advocate’s Close and World’s End Close aren’t decorative — they mark a butchers’ market, a lawyer’s house and the old city boundary (beyond it, medieval Edinburgh considered itself the edge of the known world). Mary King’s Close, sealed beneath the City Chambers since the 18th century, is the one you can actually walk through, on a guided tour below street level.

    Up Arthur's Seat

    • It's an extinct volcano with no barriers at the top

      Arthur’s Seat is the eroded plug of a volcano that last erupted around 350 million years ago, and the summit is open rock with real drop-offs and no railings — take care in wind or after rain, when the grassy approach gets slick. Go at golden hour if you can; the gentlest ascent from Dunsapie Loch takes about 45 minutes, and the view of the castle and the Forth from the top is worth every step.

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