Trek Southern Highlands — Fjallabak & Þórsmörk, Iceland

The Laugavegur Trail — Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk

Four days across Iceland's southern highlands, from the rhyolite mountains and hot springs of Landmannalaugar over an obsidian plateau and black-sand deserts to the birch woods of Þórsmörk.

Duration: 4 days
Distance: 55 km
Ascent: 1200 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Best season: Late June to early September, when the mountain huts are staffed and open

The Laugavegur is Iceland’s most famous long-distance hike and one of the most varied walks anywhere. In roughly 55 km it strings together nearly every landscape the island can offer: the banded rhyolite peaks and steaming ground of Landmannalaugar, a high snow-streaked obsidian plateau, glacier-fed lakes, roaring river fords, black volcanic deserts and, at the end, the green birch valley of Þórsmörk beneath three glaciers.

It is walked north to south, hut to hut, and while the trail is well marked and non-technical, the weather does the grading — sun, sleet and fog can all arrive in one afternoon.

Getting there. Most hikers ride the highland bus from Reykjavík to Landmannalaugar in early summer and catch the bus back out of Þórsmörk at the end. Both run only during the season.

Huts & camping. The route is spaced around the mountain huts at Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn and Emstrur (Botnar), run by Ferðafélag Íslands. Beds sell out months ahead, so book early or bring a tent for the marked campsites beside each hut.

Good to know:

The trail is only open once the huts are staffed, roughly late June to early September; snow can linger on the high plateau even in July.
There are unbridged river crossings — the Þröngá on the final day is the biggest — so carry sandals or wading shoes and never cross alone in high water.
The highest point is around Hrafntinnusker at about 1,050 m, and it is often the coldest, windiest night of the trek.

Day 1

Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

Landmannalaugar (~600 m) → Hrafntinnusker (~1,050 m) 12 km ↑ 470 m

Navigate this day

The classic opening day, leaving the hot-spring basin of Landmannalaugar and climbing steadily through some of the most colourful ground in Iceland to the trek’s highest hut.

Segments

Through the Laugahraun lava field 6 km ↑ 250 m 📍 Map

Landmannalaugar hut → Stórihver hot spring

Lava field and rhyolite slopes

Cross the Laugahraun obsidian lava field straight out of camp, then climb between the banded rhyolite peaks of Brennisteinsalda past steaming vents and the warm ground of Stórihver. About 3 hours.

About this place

Landmannalaugar is a location in Iceland's Fjallabak Nature Reserve in the Highland. It is on the edge of the Laugahraun lava field. This lava field was formed by an eruption in approximately 1477. It is largely known for its natural geothermal hot springs and surrounding landscape.
Read more on Wikipedia ↗
Photo: Anjali Kiggal · CC BY-SA 4.0
Onto the obsidian plateau 6 km ↑ 220 m 📍 Map

Stórihver → Hrafntinnusker hut

High plateau with snowfields and obsidian

Climb onto the cold, snow-streaked plateau scattered with black obsidian (hrafntinna) to the Hrafntinnusker hut, the highest and often coldest camp on the route. About 2.5 hours.

Day 2

Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn

Hrafntinnusker → Álftavatn (~540 m) 12 km ↑ 100 m

Navigate this day

A day of long views and a big descent, dropping off the obsidian plateau over ridges and snowfields to the green lakeside hut at Álftavatn.

Segments

Ridges above Jökultungur 6 km ↑ 80 m 📍 Map

Hrafntinnusker → Jökultungur descent

Snowfields and gorges

Traverse a high, snow-patched terrain of gullies and small gorges, with a worthwhile detour toward the peak of Háskerðingur, before the ground falls away toward the lakes. About 2.5 hours.
Descent to the lake 6 km ↑ 20 m 📍 Map

Jökultungur → Álftavatn hut

Steep descent and first river ford

Drop steeply down Jökultungur with the twin lakes and green plains opening below, ford the Grashagakvísl stream, and reach the Álftavatn hut on the lake shore. About 2 hours.

Day 3

Álftavatn to Emstrur (Botnar)

Álftavatn → Emstrur / Botnar (~500 m) 16 km ↑ 300 m

Navigate this day

A long crossing of the black sands, linking the lakes country to the canyon rim at Emstrur with a string of river fords along the way.

Segments

Fords to Hvanngil 5 km ↑ 120 m 📍 Map

Álftavatn → Hvanngil

River fords and grassy gorge

Ford the Bratthálskvísl and Kaldaklofskvísl rivers to the sheltered green gorge of Hvanngil, a welcome patch of grass among the ash. About 2 hours.
Across the black desert 11 km ↑ 180 m 📍 Map

Hvanngil → Emstrur (Botnar) hut

Black volcanic sand and desert plain

Cross the Bláfjallakvísl and strike out over the black volcanic desert beneath Mýrdalsjökull to the Emstrur huts, where a short evening walk reaches the rim of the deep Markarfljót canyon. About 4 hours.

About this place

Markarfljót is a river in the south of Iceland. It is approximately 100 km (62 mi) long and has had in pre-history jökulhlaups which would be potentially catastrophic, if a similar sized one was to happen in the future.
Read more on Wikipedia ↗
Photo: The original uploader was Reykholt at German Wikipedia. · CC BY-SA 3.0

Day 4

Emstrur to Þórsmörk

Emstrur / Botnar → Þórsmörk (~200 m) 15 km ↑ 250 m

Navigate this day

The landscape turns green again on the last day, descending past the Markarfljót canyon and the big Þröngá ford into the sheltered woodland of Þórsmörk.

Segments

Along the Markarfljót canyon 9 km ↑ 150 m 📍 Map

Emstrur (Botnar) → Þröngá river

Canyon edges and ravines

Follow the trail past the gorge of the Fremri-Emstruá and along the edge of the Markarfljót canyon, with the first shrubs and greenery returning underfoot. About 4 hours.

About this place

Markarfljót is a river in the south of Iceland. It is approximately 100 km (62 mi) long and has had in pre-history jökulhlaups which would be potentially catastrophic, if a similar sized one was to happen in the future.
Read more on Wikipedia ↗
Photo: The original uploader was Reykholt at German Wikipedia. · CC BY-SA 3.0
The Þröngá ford into the woods 6 km ↑ 100 m 📍 Map

Þröngá river → Þórsmörk

Glacial river crossing and birch forest

Ford the Þröngá, the largest and coldest river of the trek, then walk up into the birch woods of Þórsmörk, ringed by three glaciers and the end of the trail. About 2.5 hours.

About this place

Thórsmörk is a mountain ridge in Iceland that was named after the Norse god Thor (Þór). It is situated in the south of Iceland between the glaciers Tindfjallajökull and Eyjafjallajökull. The name "Thórsmörk" properly refers only to the mountain ridge between the rivers Krossá, Þröngá, and Markarfljót, but is sometimes used informally to describe a wider area that includes the region between Thórsmörk and Eyjafjallajökull. Thórsmörk is one of the most popular hiking areas in Iceland.
Read more on Wikipedia ↗
Photo: David Karnå · CC BY 3.0