Jacques-Cartier National Park: The Les Loups Trail

The valley’s maples and birches peak in colour around the last week or two of September, which is also when the park is at its busiest. Go on a weekday if you can. June brings black flies and mosquitoes; high summer is warm and green with long days for a relaxed start.

There is no bus to the park. Rent a car in Quebec City for the day, allow about 40 minutes to the entrance and another 15 to 20 minutes along the valley road to the trailhead, and fill up before you leave the city.

Every adult needs a daily access pass, and children under 18 go free. Buying online before you go saves time at the gate. Prices and opening dates change each season, so check the Sépaq site rather than relying on older guides.

The climb is steady and rocky in places, and the lookouts are exposed to wind. Wear hiking shoes with grip, carry a fleece or light jacket even on a warm day, and bring insect repellent from late spring into July.

There is no water or food on the trail. Carry at least two litres per person and a packed lunch for the upper lookout, and buy supplies in Quebec City or on the way, since services in the park are limited.

Keep children close at the unfenced lookouts. Black bears and moose live in the park; make noise on the trail, keep food packed, and give any animal a wide berth. Do not count on mobile coverage in the valley, and tell someone your plan.

Most visitors drive up from Quebec City for the day. To stay in the valley itself, Sépaq rents cabins, yurts and campsites in the park; book early for autumn weekends. Stoneham-et-Tewkesbury, on Route 175 on the way, is another base for lodging and food.

Turning around at the first lookout makes a walk of about five kilometres return and roughly an hour and a half, which suits most school-age children. The riverside around the Discovery and Services Centre is gentler still.